Chinese "Clip & Grow" Technique
The Art of Lingnan by Simon Feng
Introduction:
It seems that the whole world of Bonsai is familiar with the term
"Clip and Grow" and many have heard of the Lingnan school of Chinese
Penjing. However, I have never come across any articles in English that explains
Lingnan, the techniques, aesthetics, and requirements of the art. Most bonsai
practitioner's concept of "Clip and Grow" is merely as an alternative to
wiring. Chinese Penjing is a curiosity that they can't understand and many believe
there are no rules involved. Good examples of Lingnan-trained trees are not often
seen even in pictures. It is my wish that this article can begin to bridge this big
gap in the world of Bonsaias I believe that the Lingnan methods and style are excellent
ones and the art of Bonsai can greatly benefit from incorporating them.
Similarities Between Lingnan and Bonsai:
In truth, Lingnan has far more in common with Bonsai than differences.
Most of the same rules apply, for example, the trunk has a taper, the root base
must be well formed, the silhouette should be roughly triangular, the trunk should lean
forward, bar branches are frowned upon, the apex of the tree and the balance of the tree
needs to be addressed.
The Major Differences Between Lingnan and Bonsai:
Branch Structure:
One of the most important differences with Lingnan is that the branches
are 3-dimensional rather than flat. In nature, deciduous trees frequently are
3-dimensional. When they are not, the branches are never flat and horizontal, as
they are usually arranged in Japanese-style Bonsai. It has been said that every
branch in Lingnan-styled trees is like a mini-tree. Also, the techniques of
"clip and grow" give the branches abrupt angle changes which is aesthetically
better that the soft curve that is achieved with wiring.
Use of Negative Space:
Open spaces are utilized to a much higher degree than with most
Japanese-style trees. Used properly, negative or open space is truly very effective.
This is also the secret behind the enchantment of the Bunjin or Literati style.
Fewer Number of Branches
A corolllary of both of the above is that fewer branches are required.
Time Involved
This is the one really big draw-back of the "clip and grow"
method; there is no possibility of "instant Bonsai" and it makes for poor
demonstration at Bonsai conventions. The time frame to forming a good tree depends
on the quality and the species of the stock and the size, but anywhere from 2 years to 10
years may be needed. Until the final stages of development, the tree looks like an
over-grown bush. Any friend visiting you leaves shaking his head wondering if you've
gone mad. BUT, the end result is worth it!
Requirements of the "Clip and Grow" Method:
The species - (i) must be deciduous, (ii) have very vigorous growth, and
(iii) must bud back very well. Depending on the climate, the usual species are elms,
ficuses, segeratia, murraya, bouganvillea, etc. Slower growing species are still
amenable to "clip and grow", but more time is needed and it becomesless
conducive to attempt a larger tree.
Factors that allow for rapid growth include - (i) an over-sized pot
during the growing years, (ii) fast draining soil, lots of sun,water, and fertilizer,
(iii) a really healthy tree. (Note: It frequently takes 2 or 3 yearsof ideal
conditions for a given tree to "pick up speed" and reach its fastest growth.)
The artist's ability to control growth - This is the hardest part of
understanding Lingnan, how to channel all the growth vigor into the branch you want, how
to maximize growth, when and where to cut back, etc. Direction of growth, of course,
also has to be controlled as naturally all strong growth is usually straight up.
[ Examples of Lingnan-style Bonsai ]
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